Simply Sewing with Revie

Lessons

 

Lesson 1 - Vocabulary

Lesson 2 - Getting to Know your Machine

Lesson 3 - Choosing a Project

Lesson 4 - Making Napkins

 

 

 

 

Lesson 4 - Making Napkins

 

Napkins are easily made because they are square and require only simple hemming. I hand hem my napkins for two reasons:

1. They look very nice.
2. It's easy to hem napkins almost anywhere - in a waiting room; while watching a movie; while chatting on the phone; etc.

If you are interested in machine sewing your napkins - follow the initial instructions and replace the hand-hemming with a straight machine stitch.
 
You will need to decide what size you would like your final, completely hemmed napkin to be. I make my tea napkin as 9" square finished. One half yard of fabric will give me eight napkins this size.

Choose a material that is appropriate for napkins - cotton or cotton blend are good choices.

I highly advise you wash the fabric first; although I know several ladies who don't and have never had a problem with shrinkage.


I will be making a tea napkin which is smaller
than regular dinner napkins. Be sure to adjust
your measurements accordingly - add 1"
to your desired completed size.
I measured and cut out 9 and 1/2 inch squares.
A template can be made using cardboard.
 
 
 
Press 1/2-inch fold on opposite sides of napkin.
 
 
 
Press 1/2-inch fold on remaining two sides.
 
 
 
After all four sides have 1/2-inch folds pressed into them (forming a crease); begin on the side where you made your first crease and fold raw edge of fabric to meet crease; press. Repeat on opposite side and then do both remaining sides.
 
 
 
All four sides should now have two creases each,
spaced 1/4-inch apart.
 
 
 
Fold raw edge to meet first crease and fold again.
Your raw edge should now be completed hidden in the fold. Pin in place. Repeat down the side of your fabric.
 
 
 
Pin opposite sides of napkins.
 
 
 
Using the "Catch" stitch (taught here) begin at one end and work your way to the other placing stitches approximately
1/4 to 1/2 inch apart; evenly spaced. It is advisable to place your first two or three stitches close together to help anchor the corner. Likewise, place the final two or three stitches
on your row close together.

 
 
When finished with first two (and opposite) sides,
fold and pin remaining two sides and stitch.
Anchor the corner with a pin to help keep your edges even.
 
 
 
When finished stitching you should now
have a completed napkin!
 


Front view of finished napkin.

 

Lesson 3 - Choosing a Project

When choosing a pattern three things need to be taken into consideration:

Difficulty

Size

Fabric

Please bear in mind that there may be other considerations, these are the basics and the ones with which we will deal now.

 

Difficulty

For beginner projects it is best to work with larger patterns. Try to stay away from patterns for babies, toddlers, or fancy dresses; as well as patterns with lots of detail. Smaller items are much harder to work on than larger and projects with many details can be frustrating for the beginner.

Here is a list of easy projects for beginners:

Napkins

Pillowcases

Lap blankets

Aprons

Simple jumper

  

Size

If you choose a pattern for an outfit, you will need to consider the size of the pattern. Each manufacturer has their own sizes so it is important to measure well and follow the charts. If possible, try to find someone who has used patterns from the same manufacturer and ask them questions about how true the sizing is.

 

Fabric

Although there are lots of pretty types of fabrics – several are not appropriate for certain patterns or even beginning sewers.

Fabrics which are easy to use are:

Poly-cottons

Cotton

Most seersucker

Most chambray

Try to stay away from knits, silks, satins, terry cloth and velvets as a beginner.

When using cotton fabrics it is wise to run the fabric through a short rinse cycle to remove excess dye and sizing. I do know several ladies who do not do this and have never had a problem. However, I suggest this because having shrinkage or dye runs after you have completed your project can be frustrating.

 

For questions related to this sewing lesson,

please contact me:

 

 

 

 

 

WHAT'S IN YOUR SEWING BASKET?

All sewing baskets, no matter what form the basket itself takes, need to be full of useful and practical items. Here is a list of what is in my basket:

 

8-inch scissor shears

10-inch pinking shears

Assortment of hand sewing needles

Quilting straight pins

Large safety pins

Pin cushion

Graphite mechanical pencil - for marking fabric

Retractable measuring tape

Clear 8-inch ruler

Seam ripper

Thimble

Plastic elastic threader

Thread in the following colors: tan, brown, black, white, cream and red

 

There are many other notions which can be useful to a sewer. These items are what I have used for the past 25 years and have served me well. I encourage you to fill your basket with what works for you. Keep only what you like and will use.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lesson 2 - Getting to Know Your Machine

Before learning to sew it is important to know your sewing machine – whether it’s an old machine or a new one, each machine has its own feel, directions, and even personality.

It is a wise idea to read the manual if one is available. If you do not have a manual, contact the manufacturer because they often make these available – many times for free.

To be honest, there is no better way to get to know your machine than to sit down with several squares of fabric and start sewing. There are really only three main functions you need to know to effectively piece together most patterns.

These three functions are the ones to learn first:

 

Straight seams – various widths

Backstitching

Buttonholes

 

Once you become familiar with the feel of your machine doing these functions, you should try other functions on your machine that you intend to use in the future.

 

For questions related to this sewing lesson,

please contact me: